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When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred venues. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.