Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
